The History of Pearls: A Journey Through Time

The History of Pearls: A Journey Through Time
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Key Takeaways

  • Pearls are the world’s oldest gemstones. They history of pearls spans thousands of years, beginning with early coastal discoveries and evolving into a global symbol of beauty and cultural meaning. 
  • From dangerous diving to sustainable farming. The history of pearl diving reflects a shift from high-risk diving to modern, ethical cultivation.  
  • Cultured pearls transformed the industry. Innovations by Kokichi Mikimoto revolutionised the market, marking a major milestone in cultured pearl history.  
  • Pearls have shaped fashion across centuries. From ancient Rome to modern icons like Coco Chanel, the history of pearls in fashion highlights their enduring role as a staple of timeless style.  
  • Australia plays a vital role in modern pearling. Regions like Broome and farms like our Cygnet Bay and Broken Bay pearl farm are central to producing some of the world’s finest and most sustainable Saltwater pearls. 

Summarise This Article

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Long before diamonds were cut or gemstones were mined, pearls were revered as the ocean’s most mysterious treasure. The history of pearls stretches back thousands of years, woven through ancient mythology, global trade, royal adornment, and modern innovation.  

Naturally formed beneath the surface of the sea, pearls are the only gemstone cultivated within a living organism, making their story extraordinary.  

How Were Pearls Discovered? 

The earliest records suggest that pearls were discovered by coastal communities searching for food. As they opened oysters to eat, they occasionally found lustrous spheres, rare, beautiful and unlike anything else in nature. These early discoveries sparked fascination across ancient civilisations and quickly elevated pearls from accidental finds to highly prized treasures. 

This moment marks the beginnings of both the history of pearl diving and the global obsession with these ocean-born gemstones. 

A Brief History of Pearling

Pearling is the process of recovering pearls from oysters or molluscs in either seawater or freshwater.

Until the 20th century, the only way of recovering and collecting pearls was by diving. The first documented instance of pearl diving has been dated back to 2,000 BCE in China, where pearl divers around the world risked their lives, diving to depths of 100ft to retrieve pearl shells in the hopes of finding these precious gems.

Today, almost any pearl on the market is a cultured pearl. Natural pearls are exceptionally rare, and most natural beds of pearl-producing shells have been exhausted due to over-harvesting in the past.

How Are Pearls Formed?

A pearl is formed as a protection response: When an irritant finds itself inside an oyster or mollusc shell. In the case of natural pearls, this irritant could be a bone, a grain of sand, or a piece of dust, and when it enters the shell, it triggers the defence mechanism of the shell. The defence mechanism of the shell and the way in which it protects itself from this foreign entity is to secrete layers of a substance called nacre. This layering of nacre coats the foreign entity that has accidentally entered the shell and this process slowly creates a pearl over the span of several years.

Although cultured pearls are real, natural pearls are also produced by an oyster or mollusc shell, the only difference is that they require human assistance to grow. Pearl cultivation involves the process of a pearl farmer physically inserting an irritant in the form of a tiny bead called a nucleus. This is inserted in the soft tissue of the shell and in here layers of nacre are formed – just the same as a natural pearl is formed.

What Are Pearls?Natural vs Cultured Pearls

The History of Mother of Pearl

The history of mother of pearl is deeply intertwined with the pearl industry itself. This iridescent inner shell lining has been used for tens of thousands of years, with evidence dating back to the Bardi Jawi people of the Dampier Peninsula. The pearl shell was both an important and nutritious food source and was of great cultural significance. They would carve the mother of pearl shell into a teardrop shape and then carve unique lines into the shell before staining it with red ochre. 

On the other side of the world, mother of pearl shell became prominent over 6,000 years ago, with evidence dating back to Ancient Egypt. It later became prominent in Ottoman architecture, religious artefacts and decorative inlay work in decor and furniture.  

By the 19th century, mother of pearl became a global commodity through button production. In Broome, vast oyster beds positioned the region as the world’s leading supplier. At one stage, Broome contributed to over 80% of global mother of pearl before World War II.  

The History of Mother of Pearl

The History of Pearl Diving 

For centuries, the only way to source pearls was through dangerous pearl divers date back to around 2,000 BCE in China, with others operating across the Persian Gulf, India and Sri Lanka. These divers would descend up to 30 metres on a single breath, risking their lives in search of oysters that might contain a pearl.  

This era defined the early history of pearls and directly influenced wealth and trade across multiple regions.  

Comparing Historical Diving Methods with Modern Cultivation 

Then: 

  • Free diving with no equipment 
  • High risk, low success rate 
  • Natural pearls were and are extremely rare 

Now: 

  • Sustainable pearl farming of Saltwater pearls 
  • Diving for pearl shell with suits and equipment 
  • Safety procedures now in place

Today's methods reflect a refined evolution of the industry, where careful craftsmanship replaces chance.  

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How Has Pearl Farming Evolved Over Time? 

The shift from natural harvesting to farming marks one of the most important turning points in cultured pearl history.  

In the late 19th century, Kokichi Mikimoto revolutionised the industry by developing a reliable method for cultured pearls. By 1899 he successfully brought cultured Akoya pearls to market, forever changing accessibility and supply of Saltwater pearls. 

Modern pearl farming has since evolved into a highly skilled practice that balances: 

  • Marine science 
  • Environmental stewardship 
  • Generational knowledge 

At Australian pearl farms like Cygnet Bay and Broken Bay, pearl cultivation is deeply connected to sustainability and the health of our oceans.  

Who was Mikimoto and What is He Famous For?

The Japanese son of a noodle store owner, Kokichi Mikimoto, first learned how to consistently culture pearls. Mikimoto was highly instrumental in creating the global cultured pearl industry, where in 1899 he started selling Akoya pearls in Japan through his pearl culturing technique.

Australia’s Pearl culturing Pioneers

In 1960, Pearls of Australia spearheaded Australia’s first trial harvest of cultured pearls, chartering a new course in pearling otherwise not known within Australia or rest of the world, outside of Japan. No cultured pearl farm in the world had ever successfully come to fruition without Japanese involvement. That all changed, thanks to the Brown family and their passionate dedication to a quest that was considered virtually impossible. From bark huts and handmade tools, the story of Australia’s cultured pearling pioneers begun. Lyndon Brown then trained and employed three local Bardi Jawi men. Tom Wiggan, Aubrey Tigan and Gordon Dixon, to also culture pearls, and so the very first all Australian pearl farm was established on Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, in the Kimberley.

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The Different Types of Pearls

The process of pearl formation does not differ between types of pearls, whether that be Akoya pearls, Tahitian pearls, South Sea pearls, and Freshwater pearls.

Akoya Pearls

An Akoya pearl is a type of saltwater pearl that comes from the Pinctada fucata shell. These pearls are mainly found in the colder waters off the coast of Japan, as well as Vietnam, Korea, and Australia.

Our Akoya pearls are sustainably grown in the azure waters of our Broken Bay Pearl Farm, located on the Central Coast of NSW. 

What Are Akoya Pearls?

Tahitian Pearls

Tahitian Pearls were revered by the Polynesians, and in their culture, they were seen as gifts from their god Oro – the god of love and fertility. The French arrived and colonized in the 1600’s, and during this time became enamoured with these unique pearls. They began harvesting all pearl oysters which nearly led them to extinction until a limit on harvesting was decreed in 1880.

In the 1960’s modern pearl culturing techniques as well as pearl farms were introduced to the islands and today Tahitian pearls make up to 20% of the pearl market.

What Are Tahitian Pearls?

South Sea Pearls

South Sea pearls are a type of saltwater pearl and are considered the rarest of all types of pearls. They come from the Pinctada maxima shell, where the name “South Sea” originates from the location of the shell, as these shells are found in the southern hemisphere – particularly around northern Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines, Burma and French Polynesia.

Our South Sea pearls are sustainably cultivated in the pristine and remote waters of our Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, located on the Kimberley Coast, WA. 

What Are South Sea Pearls?

Freshwater Pearls

Freshwater pearls are grown in rivers, lakes, reservoirs, and ponds – most of them coming from China. Freshwater pearls are usually less lustrous, have a thinner nacre, produce multiple pearls at a time and are cultured for a shorter time than their Saltwater pearl counterparts.

What Are Freshwater Pearls?

Broome’s Role in the Pearling Industry

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Broome became the epicentre of global pearling. This peaked in 1910 where Broome supplied over 80% of the world’s mother of pearl. This then transitioned to cultured pearling in the mid-20th century.  

The establishment of Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm in 1946 marked a new era, being the first Australian owned operation to successfully culture South Sea pearls. 

The Symbolism of Pearls in Different Cultures

Cultures around the world hold their own symbolic meaning to the precious pearl. Greek culture believed that pearls were the tears shed by Aphrodite, the goddess of love. In Hindu culture, Krishna a major Hindu deity, presented his wife with pearls when they were wed.

Furthermore, Arab culture held a similar notion to that of the Greeks, believing that pearls were the result of the tears of gods that had fallen into the ocean and made their way into the shell of oysters. Pearls carried great importance in Arab culture due to the abundance of natural oyster beds in the Persian Gulf which was at the centre of the pearl trade before the advent of cultured pearls.

For over 40,000 years, The Bardi Jawi people of the Dampier Peninsula have harvested pearl shell. Not only was the shell an important and nutritious food source, but it was also incredibly culturally significant.

The Christian bible even describes the gates of heaven as being carved out of pearl. The global cultural significance of the pearl and the pearl shell is huge, has been for millennia – especially in its use in jewellery.

The History of Wearing Pearls 

The history of wearing pearls is closely tied to power.  

  • In Ancient Rome, pearls were reserved for the elite 
  • Julius Caeser even passed laws restricting their use 
  • In Ancient China, pearls symbolised wisdom and protection 

A famous early example includes a pearl necklace discovered in a Persian tomb dating back to 420BC, one of the oldest known pieces of pearl jewellery. 

What Historical Periods Are Known For Their Prominent Pearl Use In Fashion?  

The Pearl Age (15th to 17th Century) 

This period marked the height of the history of pearls in fashion, particularly across European royalty. Pearls were set in crowns, necklaces, hairpieces, gowns, and more.  

Victorian & Edwardian Eras 

Pearls symbolised elegance and femininity, often warn in delicate strands and brooches.   

20th Century Revival 

Icons like Coco Chanel redefined pearls as everyday luxury, layered and effortlessly chic.  

The Impact of Famous Historical Pearl Collections on Contemporary Designs 

Royal and historic pearl collections have heavily influenced modern jewellery design. From elaborate royal pearl strands to heirloom pieces, these collections inspire: 

  • Layered pearl styling 
  • Mixed materials: Gold, pearls and diamonds in intricate designs 
  • Statement yet organic forms 

Today’s designers reinterpret these influences through a contemporary lens, balancing tradition with innovation.  

The Future of Pearls: Sustainability and Innovation 

Today, the history of pearls continues to evolve.  

Modern pearl farming represents one of the most sustainable forms of luxury: 

  • Pearls are grown, not mined 
  • Saltwater pearl farms support marine ecosystems 
  • Healthy oceans are essential for pearl production 

From ancient discovery to contemporary cultivation, pearls remain a symbol of resilience and a connection to the natural world.  

Sustainable Pearls & Ethical Jewellery

Pearls of Australia Jewellery Selection

Classic collection

Our collection of classic pearl jewellery is a modern take on timeless, staple pieces suitable for all ages and styles. From simple studs to accent your everyday work outfits, to the perfect day-to-night essential pendant, ring, or strand, that you’ll never want to take off, we have you covered with the understated beauty of Australian South Sea or Akoya pearls.

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Kimberley Lily collection

This popular jewellery collection draws its inspiration from the stunning natural lily varieties of the Kimberley region of Northwest Australia, where even today, new species are being identified. Throughout this rugged and remote area over 3,500 varieties have been recorded, leading it to be regarded as one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots for this beautiful flower.

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Seagrass collection

Until recently, the powerful contribution that seagrass makes to the preservation of a pristine marine environment has mostly gone unnoticed. Seagrass meadows form part of ‘blue forests’ (alongside mangroves and saltwater marshes) which are vital for coastal communities and significant for our global climate being amongst the most efficient carbon sinks in the ocean.

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Discover The Legacy of Australian-grown Pearl Jewellery

Every pearl carries a story shaped over time, by nature and culture.  

Explore our collections and discover our Saltwater pearl jewellery. 

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Find the Perfect Pearl Jewellery for you!

Prefer to talk to one of our Jewellery and Pearl experts before purchasing one of our pearl pieces? They would love to help you in any way, please contact them either by sending an email to hello@pearlsofaustralia.com.au or call (08) 6478 6886.

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History of Pearls FAQs

What is the history of pearls? 

The history of pearls dates back over 4,000 years, with early discoveries in regions like China and the Persian Gulf. Initially found by chance while gathering food, pearls quickly became symbols of wealth, power and spirituality across ancient civilisations.

How were pearls discovered?  

Pearls were likely discovered accidentally by early coastal communities opening oysters for food. Inside, they found naturally formed gems, sparking fascination and leading to the development of pearl diving and trade.

What is the difference between natural and cultured pearls?

Natural pearls form without human intervention, while cultured pearls are created when a small seed called a nucleus is insertedinto a pearl shell. Both are real pearls, but cultured Saltwater pearls are far more common today due to sustainability and consistency.

What is the history of pearl diving?  

The history of pearl diving dates back to at least 2000 BCE. Divers in regions like the Persian Gulf and Asia would free-dive to great depths without equipment, making it a dangerous profession.

How have pearl farming techniques evolved over time?

Pearl farming has evolved from manual, unpredictable harvesting to highly refined cultivation techniques. Today, saltwater pearl farms aim to use sustainable practices and longer growth cycles to produce high-quality pearls while supporting marine ecosystems.

Why are pearls still relevant today?

Pearls remain highly valued due to their natural beauty and cultural significance. Modern pearl farming ensures they are one of the few truly renewable luxury gemstones, making them increasingly relevant in today’s ethical jewellery landscape.