The History & Evolution of Pearl Strands

The History & Evolution of Pearl Strands
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Key Takeaways

  • Pearl strands have been worn for more than 5,000 years and were once among the rarest and most valuable possessions in the world.
  • The development of the cultured pearl in the early 20th century transformed pearl strands from exclusive royal treasures into more accessible pieces to be enjoyed worldwide.
  • Australia plays a significant role in pearl history, producing some of the world’s finest South Sea pearls through the Pinctada maxima pearl shell.
  • Pearls of Australia uniquely connects two working pearl farms: Cygnet Bay and Broken Bay Pearl Farm – both Australian pearl farms.
  • Every Pearls of Australia strand is single-origin and farm direct, crafted in our Perth Studio, and accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity that guarantees its provenance.  

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Pearl strands have been worn and treasured for thousands of years. Long before diamonds became the world’s most sought-after gemstone, pearls were deemed symbols of status and prestige. From ancient emperors to kings and queens, and now to modern collectors, the pearl strand necklace has remained one of jewellery’s most enduring designs.

Today, pearl strands continue to be cherished by heirloom pieces that connect generations. While their style has evolved over time, their appeal remains unchanged. At Pearls of Australia, every pearl strand begins its journey on one of two family-owned pearl farms: Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm in Western Australia and Broken Bay Pearl Farm in New South Wales. As pearl farmers and jewellers, we are uniquely connected to each and every stage of a pearl’s story, from cultivation to craftsmanship.

Ancient Origins of Pearl Strands

The history of pearl strands stretches back millennia. Historical records suggest pearls were gifted to Chinese royalty as early as 2300 BCE, making them one of the earliest gemstones documented in human history. Their rarity and natural beauty quickly established them as symbols of wealth and importance.

Across ancient civilisations, pearls held cultural and spiritual significance. In China, they were believed to offer protection and good fortune. Throughout Europe and the Middle East, pearls were associated with wisdom and divine favour.

The Romans prized pearls above almost every other gem. Julius Caesar is said to have restricted pearl wearing to the ruling classes, reinforcing pearls as a symbol of status. One of the most infamous stories is of Cleopatra dissolving a pearl into a glass of wine to demonstrate her incredible wealth.

What made pearls so valuable was their rarity. Before cultured pearl farming, every pearl had to be found by chance. Divers searched dangerous waters and opened thousands of pearl shell in the hope of discovering a single gem-quality pearl. Creating a pearl strand required (and still requires) an extraordinary collection of pearls that match in size, colour, lustre, shape and surface quality, making pearl strands some of the most valuable pieces of jewellery in the world – even more so for natural pearl strands.

The earliest evidence of pearls being used in jewellery dates back approximately 5,800 years. By the 13th century, Chinese farmers had begun cultivating half or Mabe pearls in freshwater pearl shell, laying the foundation for future pearl farming innovations.

By the nineteenth century, demand for pearls had become so great that natural oyster beds around the world were under significant pressure. The industry needed a new approach, setting the stae for one of the most important developments in jewellery history: Cultured pearls.

Australia’s Pearl Strand Story

Australia’s connection to pearling began long before European settlement. For more than 20,000 years, Aboriginal peoples along Australia’s northern coastline harvested and traded pearl shell across extensive trade networks. Pearl shell held cultural and ceremonial significance and still remains an important part of Indigenous history throughout the Kimberley and norther Australia.

European settlers discovered abundant pearl shell populations in Western Australian waters during the mid-1800s. In 1861, the world’s largest pearl producing oyster, Pinctada maxima, was identified in Nickol Bay.

By the 1880s, Broome had become the centre of Australia’s pearling industry. Rich pearl shell beds attracted workers from around the world, including Aboriginal Australians, Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Malay, Sri Lanken and Torres Strait Islander communities. By 1910, Broome was the biggest pearling centre in the world and supplied much of the world’s mother of pearl shell for buttons.

The industry faced significant challenges during the twentieth century. World War II disrupted operations across northern Australia, and the rise of plastic products reduced demand for mother of pearl shell during the 1950s. Fortunately, the future of pearling lay in pearl cultivation.

In 1946, Dean Brown was sailing the Kimberlery and recognised the protentional of the region’s Pinctada maxima pearl shell, particularly in Cygnet Bay. This is where he would establish what we now know as Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm – Australia's oldest continuously operating, entirely Australian owned pearl farm. This marked the beginning of the Brown family’s pearling legacy.

As cultured pearl farming developed, the Kimberley became one of the world’s most important regions for South Sea pearl production. The area’s remote waters, strong tidal movements, and healthy marine environments proved ideal for growing exceptional pearls.

Today, Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm sits 220 kilometres north of Broome on the tip of the Dampier Peninsula. The farm remains one of only a handful of commercial pearl farms operating in Western Australia.

Our StoryCygnet Bay Pearl Farm
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The Rise of Australian Akoya Pearls

While Western Australia is renowned for South Sea pearls, another important chapter in Australian pearling history has been quietly unfolding in the east coast. Broken Bay Pearl Farm is located on the lower Hawkesbury River, approximately one hour north of Sydney, and is the only operational pearl farm in New South Wales.

The pearl and oyster farm cultivates Australian Akoya pearls from the Pinctada fucata pearl shell, a different species to the Pinctada maxima pearl shell grown at Cygnet Bay. Australian Akoya pearls are known for their mirror-like lustre and timeless round shape. The Hawkesbury River’s pristine environment provides ideal conditions for pearl cultivation, supporting the production of pearls recognised for their exceptional quality.

This means Pearls of Australia brings together two native pearl species from both sides of Australia, and in the world of pearl strands – means we are able to great stunning pieces that uniquely feature both our Australian-grown Saltwater pearls in ranges like our Provenance Range and Eternal Collection.

Broken Bay Pearl FarmOur Collections

How Cultured Pearls Changed Pearl Strands

The development of cultured pearls transformed the history of pearl strands forever. In the early twentieth century, Japanese pioneers Tatsuhei Mise, Dr Tokichi Nishikawa and Kokichi Mikimoto developed techniques that allowed pearls to be cultivated within pearl shell rather than relying solely on natural formation. Their work revolutionised the pearl industry. For the first time, high-quality pearls could be produced consistently, making pearl jewellery more accessible while reducing pressure on wild oyster populations. The impact this had on the fashion industry was immediate.

During the 1920s, long pearl strands became synonymous with the Art Deco era. Women wore opera-length necklaces draped, layered and paired with elegant evening wear. By the 1950s and 1960s, influential figures such as Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy and Coco Chanel had cemented pearl strands as timeless staples.

The following decades saw the rise of Tahitian pearl strands and Freshwater pearl strands, expanding the variety of pearls available to jewellery lovers around the world. Despite these developments, South Sea and Akoya pearl strands remain among the most highly regarded for their quality and rarity.

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Why Pearl Strands Remain Timeless

Pearls strands have endured throughout history because they offer something few pieces of jewellery can: Heirloom value and sentimental meaning. Royal families have long embraced pearl necklaces as symbols of tradition. Queen Victoria helped establish many of the pearl conventions associated with the British Royal Family, while Queen Elizabeth II became known for her signature multi-strand pearl necklaces.

Another enduring style is the graduated pearl strand, where pearls are largest at the centre of the strand and gradually decrease in size toward the clasp. This design originated as a practical solution. Creating a perfectly matched pearl strand requires sorting through thousands of pearls to find a small number that match in size, colour, shape, lustre and surface quality. Early pearl farmers often didn’t have enough pearls that match these virtues to create uniform strands, leading to the development of graduated designs. Many vintage pearl strands still feature this traditional style, making them popular among collectors and those inhering family heirlooms.

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Types of Pearl Strands 

Australian South Sea Pearl Strands

Cultivated within the Pinctada maxima pearl shell at our Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, Australian South Sea pearls are known for their larger size, thick nacre and exceptional quality. Typically occurring in neutral tones like white and cream, these pearls are among the rarest and most sought-after in the world. Creating a complete South Sea pearl strand may require years of harvests to assemble enough matching pearls.

South Sea Pearl Strands

Australian Akoya Pearl Strands

Australian Akoya pearls from our Broken Bay Pearl Farm are cultivated within the Pinctada fucata pearl shell. They are known for their bright lustre and timeless round shape. Available in a greater variety of colour than our South Sea pearls, we typically see tones of white, cream, silver, soft pink and blue.

Akoya Pearl Strands

Australian Keshi Pearl Strands

Keshi pearls are a by-product the pearl cultivation process and contain no nucleus, consisting entirely of nucleus. Their organic shapes and exceptional lustre make every Keshi pearl strand unique.

Keshi Pearl Strands

Australian Mabe Pearl Strands 

Mabe pearls offer a distinctive take on the traditional “round” pearl strand. Unlike cultured pearls, Mabe pearls are a dome shape that have been grown against the inner shell of the pearl shell. At Pearls of Australia, we are proud to be the only jeweller in Australia offering Mabe pearl strands, crafted using our Cygnet Bay grown Mabe pearls. Their larger profile creates a striking strand that celebrates the natural beauty of the pearl while offering something unique within the world of pearl strands.

Mabe Pearl Strand

Tahitian Pearl Strands 

Tahitian pearl strands are prized for their naturally dark colours and complex overtones, which can range from silver and green to peacock. These pearls are cultivated primarily in French Polynesia from the Black-lipped oyster, Pinctada margaritifera. Introduced to the global market during the 1970s, Tahitian pearls expanded the colour palette available in pearl jewellery. While Pearls of Australia specialises in Australian South Sea and Akoya pearls, Tahitian pearl strands remain and important part of the broader context of cultured pearls and their evolution throughout the twentieth century.

Freshwater Pearl Strands

Freshwater pearl strands have played a significant role in making pearl strands more accessible to a wider audience. Cultivated in freshwater lakes and river, particularly throughout China, Freshwater pearls experienced significant growth in production during the 1980s. Available in a wide range of shapes, sizes, colours, these strands are valued for the affordability and versatility, often colour and lustre treated to meet fashion and consumer demands. Their emergence marked an important chapter in the evolution of pearl jewellery.

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Choosing the Right Pearl Strand 

Choosing a pearl strand is a personal decision. Pearl size, strand length, colour and pearl type all influence how a strand looks and feels when worn. Whether you’re choosing an Australian South Sea pearl strand necklace, or an Australian Akoya pearl strand bracelet, our team can help you through all our options.  

Want to create your own, bespoke pearl strand? Book a Pearl Strand Consultation to explore our collection, choose your very own pearls, strand length, clasp type and more! Our team offer personalised advice tailored to your preferences and budget.  

Pearl Strand GuidePearl Strand Consultation

Caring for Your Pearl Strand 

With proper care, a pearl strand can be cherished for generations. To protect your piece: 

  • Put your pearl strand on last and remove it first. 
  • Avoid contact with perfume, hairspray, and cosmetic products. 
  • Gently wipe with a soft cloth after wearing. 
  • Store pearl strands flat and separately from other jewellery.  
  • Avoid exposure to chlorine, harsh chemicals, and don’t wear in water. 

Pearl strands should generally be restrung every 12 to 24 months if worn regularly. As part of our commitment to lifelong care, Pearls of Australia offers complimentary annual restringing and cleaning for all our pearl strand necklaces and bracelets.  

For more advice, explore our Pearl Care Guide.  

Caring For Your Pearls

Pearls of Australia Strand Selection

Pearl Strands

Pearls of Australia proudly showcase some of the rarest Australian South Sea and Akoya pearl strands, some so rare they remain part of the Brown family's 80-year private collection. As with all our jewellery, a pearl strand is an investment in future generations - a treasured heirloom that reflects an incredible story connecting people and place.

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Discover The Legacy of Australian-grown Pearl Strands

What makes a Pearls of Australia pearl strand necklace or bracelet unique is its connection to origin. Every pearl begins its journey at either Cygnet Bay or Broken Bay pearl farm. From there, the pearls remain in the hands of our pearl farmers, then to our pearl graders, and finally to our jewellers – never leaving our hands. This is what farm-direct, single-origin pearl jewellery means.

Every pearl strand is accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity, providing confidence in its provenance and origin.

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Find the Perfect Pearl Strand for you!

Prefer to talk to one of our Jewellery and Pearl experts before purchasing one of our pearl pieces? They would love to help you in any way, please contact them either by sending an email to hello@pearlsofaustralia.com.au or call (08) 6478 6886.

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History of Pearl Strands FAQs

What is the difference between Akoya and South Sea pearl strands?

Australian Akoya pearls are typically smaller than Australian South Sea pearls. Akoya pearls are grown at our Broken Bay Pearl Farm from the Pinctada fucata pearl shell while South Sea pearls are grown at our Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm within the Pinctada maxima pearl shell.

Why do royals wear pearl necklaces? 

Pearls have long symbolised wealth and status. Royal families have worn pearl necklaces for centuries, often passing them down through generations as heirlooms.

What is single-origin pearl jewellery? 

Single-origin pearl jewellery refers to jewellery where each pearl can be authentically traced back to their source. At Pearls of Australia, every pearl is cultivated at either Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm or Broken Bay Pearl Farm and crafted in our Perth Studio. Discover why authentic pearls matter.

Where can I buy authentic pearl strand necklaces in Australia? 

Pearls of Australia offers farm-direct Australian South Sea, Akoya, Mabe and Keshi pearl strands, all accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity, guaranteeing source of origin from our very own pearl farms.

What is the history behind pearl strand necklaces? 

The pearl necklace is one of the oldest and most cherished forms of adornment in human history. The story begins over 7,000 years ago, when early civilisations in the Persian Gulf first discovered these treasures hidden within pearl shell. In written history, pearls first appeared in Asian cultures, in both ancient Chinese and Indo-Persian Sanskrit texts as early as 4,000 years ago. The oldest surviving example of a pearl necklace, now in the collection of the Louvre, is thought to date to around 350 BC and was found in modern-day Syria 

Throughout antiquity, pearls became synonymous with privilege. In ancient Rome, their rarity was so revered that laws were enacted restricting their use to the upper classes. During the Renaissance, a craze for elaborate pearl necklaces emerged, featuring multiple strands layered with metals and gems. 

Australia's own pearl story runs deep. For 80 years, Pearls of Australia's family of ocean farmers has cultivated premium pearls in Australia's pristine waterways, featuring two locally grown pearl species, sold directly from our ocean farms. 

Where can I buy authentic vintage-style pearl strand jewellery in Australia? 

Australia is home to some of the world's finest pearl jewellers. For those seeking genuine provenance and heritage look no further than Pearls of Australia. Their unique jewellery collections feature two locally grown Saltwater pearl species, crafted over years and sold directly from their ocean farms. Few collections in the world can boast the purity, rarity, lustre and provenance of their Australian-grown pearls.

How have pearl strands evolved in fashion over the decades? 

During the 1920s, many style icons became famous for their long, simple pearl strands. These strands often measured more than 30 inches and were typically decorated with a tassel as a pendant, no longer exclusive to sophisticated evening events, but worn casually at any time.

By the 1930s, these necklaces were looped and shortened to create a beautiful cascade of pearls. Around the mid-1990s, larger pearls and graduated strands came into fashion, while today people are gravitating towards more unique pearl types.

Jackie Kennedy revolutionased the signature three-strand pearl necklace, while Audrey Hepburn became synonymous with pearl necklaces.

Today, Pearls of Australia bridges this legacy with modernity, pairing both visible and invisible qualities of rare Australian-grown Saltwater pearls with elegantly crafted jewellery designs, creating pieces treasured for generations.

Why do the royals wear three strands of pearls? 

Pearls are a timeless fashion statement, and there has never been a time when a queen didn’t wear pearls. Queen Victoria put her own spin on the tradition in the 19th century, giving each of her daughters and granddaughters a single pearl on their birthday so that by the time they turned 18 they had enough to fill out a strand.

When Queen Elizabeth II came to the throne in 1952, she commissioned a three-strand pearl necklace using graduated pearls from the family collection, fastened with a small diamond clasp.

The Queen had an extensive collection of pearl necklaces, from single strands to six rows, but wore the three-strand style most often. The triple-strand pearl necklace became one of the most famous pearl necklaces in the world, worn across decades and standing alongside the crown as a constant symbol of grace.

How often should pearl strands be restrung? 

Pearl strands will need to be restrung every 12 to 24 months based on wear. Signs it's time: the thread looks frayed, the pearls move loosely, or gaps appear between pearls when the strand lies flat.

Does Pearls of Australia offer any care services for pearl strands?

Yes, our team of pearl experts is always happy to answer questions, and they provide a complimentary cleaning service for all Pearls of Australia jewellery pieces, as well as an annual restringing service for pearl strand necklaces and bracelets. It's one of the real advantages of buying from a specialist who stands behind their pearls long after the purchase.