The Art of Pearl Grading
There are a number of important stages in the creation of unique and beautiful pearl jewellery, and here we take a closer look at one of the most crucial, the art of pearl grading each of these precious gems.
Key Takeaways
- Pearls of Australia employs a comprehensive pearl grading system based on our seven virtues: Colour, Lustre, Shape, Size, Surface, Provenance and Purity.
- What makes a pearl highly valuable is the rarity of its characteristic or virtues, therefore the more spherical a pearl's shape is, the higher the lustre, the larger the size, and the better the surface quality.
- Surface quality is assed by the presence of blemishes or imperfections on the pearl's surface.
- Nacre quality refers to the thickness and quality of the nacre; the substance secreted by the pearl shell that forms the pearl.
- Matching refers to the uniformity of the pearls in a strand or pair of earrings. Well-matched pearls consider the size, shape, colour, lustre and surface quality.
Summarise this article
Our Pearl Grading Process: From Farm to Retail
Farm Pearl Grading
This is the first part of the pearl grading process, and it’s where we do an initial assessment of the annual crop for the purpose of providing feedback to the pearl farm management team. Based on these results, they can monitor how particular growing areas on the pearl farm are performing, the individual pearl technician results, eg the retention rate of pearls, mortality, and pearl quality. The farm management team will also be looking at other important information such as research and development experiments which require analysis of the size, shape and quality of the pearl to determine viability.
The most important aspects in a farm grade are the analysis of individual groups of pearl shell, and their percentage of saleable pearls (vs. low grade or unsaleable), the size and weight of the pearls produced, the percentage of fine quality shapes (eg round, drop, baroque etc,) the percentage of clean skin, and a basic colour profile. Individual groups of pearls are held in their separate grades before they are blended with other pearls. This is for the purpose of finding matching pairs and making strands, once the key data has been collected for the farm manager and the research team.
Premium & Unique Pearl Selection
Before any group of pearls are blended, we select our premium (top quality) and unique (unusual size, shape, colour, lustre) pearls. These pearls will form part of our Provenance Proof (blockchain ID) pearls. They are kept separate as we then track their identity from the beginning of their journey at their source of origin, to the seeding, harvesting, and all the way through to pearl grading and jewellery manufacture. The entire story of these pearls is captured by blockchain digital technology and is carried with each pearl for life.
Matchmaking pearls
Once farm grading is complete, the management have the information they need, and the premium/unique pearls have their information captured for Provenance Proof, the balance of the harvest is then mixed and transferred to the Matchmaking department. Here we commence the process of finding matching pairs and strands. Depending on the quality and quantity of the harvests, some strands will be started but may require pearls from future harvests to complete the strand. When a pearl finds its ‘mate’ in a pair or matching strand, it has a higher value.
final retail pearl grading
With farm grading complete, premium and unique pearls are selected for Provenance Proof, and as many pairs and strands are matched together as possible. It is now time to put a final retail grade and value on each pearl and select which pearls will make the Pearls of Australia jewellery collections.
A retail grade involves a finer grading of shapes:
Round, Near Round, Oval, Drop, Semi Drop, High Button, Button, Baroque and Circle.
Each lot is separated into colour tones (such as white, silver white, cream white, pink, silver blue etc).
Then, each pearl is given a skin grade based on the number, position and type of visible blemishes on the surface, in conjunction with the lustre or shine of the pearl. At PoA, we use:Â A1, A2, A3, B1 & B2 to describe this.
Finally, each pearl is run through a sieve plate to determine the mm diameter size, down to the 0.5mm.
With final shape, colour, grade (surface imperfections and lustre), and size and ‘matchability’ (if a pair or strand) now determined, a value can be applied, and the pearls are transferred to the jewellery department for design, manufacture, assembly and sale.
It’s important to remember that the entire pearl grading process is done by hand and eye (not mechanised), and each pearl will pass through the hands of a junior and senior pearl grader several times, to determine the final grade and price. It’s a long process that can take several months to complete, after the pearls has been harvested at the pearl farm.
Why Grading Matters: What Makes a Pearl Valuable?
Pearl grading helps deine which pearls are rare and highest of quality. Some of the most valuable pearls are those that combine several characteristics:
High lustre: How sharply and brightly the pearl reflects light.
Symmetrical shape: Truely round or spherical pearls are rare, so shape strongly impacts the value of the pearl.
Surface quality: Fewer blemishes on a pearl means it is more valuable.
Size: An Australian South Sea pearl that is over 14mm or 15mm is seen as more valuable, with value increasing the the size of the pearl increasing.
Provenance: Where the pearl is from, if it has a Certificate of Authenticity and how it is farmed is part of the quality and therefore value of the pearl.
Purity: Referring to no chemical enhancements or unnatural processes to enhance the pearl's natural state in any way. At Pearls of Australia we only sell our pearls as nature intended - with their natural colour and lustre.
Pearl Grading Chart
While there's no universal pearl quality or grading chart, many systems share common categories.
At Pearls of Australia, this is the pearl grading chart that we refer to:
Grading Pearls Guide: Tips for Buyers
Ask for a grading guide so you know what virtues or characteristics are being assessed.
Look for provenance, especially with premium pearls, knowing where the pearl came from not only adds value to the pearl but gives you peace of mind to know that it is a real pearl.
Don'y rely only on the letters referncing the pearl (like AAA), ask how that relates to the lustre, surface quality, etc.
Understand that no grading system is truly universal in the world of pearls, different sells may use slightly different terms.
Why Choose Pearls of Australia for your Pearl Jewellery?
Discover the difference of Pearls of Australia’s Australian pearl jewellery, where craftmanship meets ethical sourcing of our locally grown, Australian pearls. Uncover our unique aspects that set us apart in the world of fine jewellery.Â
Find the Perfect Pearl Jewellery for you!
Prefer to talk to one of our Jewellery and Pearl experts before purchasing one of our Australian pearl pieces? They would love to help you in any way, please contact them either by sending an email to hello@pearlsofaustralia.com.au or call (08) 6478 6886.
FAQs: Pearl Grading
What is pearl grading?
Pearl grading is the process of evaluating the quality and value of a eparl based on set criteria such as colour, lustre, shape, size, surface, provenance and purity.
What is a pearl grading chart?
A pearl grading chart is a reference tool that helps classify pearls by grade (eg. AAA, AA, A) based on factors like surface quality, lustre, shape, etc. Because there's no single global standard, these charts can vary between sellers.
What are the main factors used in professional pearl grading?
There are several factors used in professional pearl grading, which include:
- Size
- Shape
- Colour
- Lustre
- Surface Quality
- Provenance
- Purity
Why is a pearl shapes chart useful?
A pearl shapes chart helps you understand the different pearl shapes, like round, drop, baroque, and how those shapes affect the value of the pearl. Pearls of Australia's final grading uses detailed shape categories which can be seen on our Pearl Guide page.
What is a South Sea pearl grading chart?
A South Sea pearl grading chart is a specialised grading framework for South Sea pearls, which often emphasise large size, high lustre, and clean surface. Though there is no universal chart or grading system, our grading aligns with these key virtues. Learn more about this on our Pearl Guide page.
How does the Akoya pearl grading system work?
The Akoya pearl grading system often uses the AAA-A scale. Higher grades, like AAA, mean very high lustre and clean surface. Learn more about this on our Pearl Guide page.
Do all companies use the same pearl grading systems?
No, there is no single or universal pearl grading system. Many reputable pearl sellers, including Pearls of Australia.
How is final retail value of pearls decided after pearl grading?
After farm grading, premium perals are set aside, others are matched, and then each pearl is graded for colour, shape, surface, size, lustre. Our graders assess and value each pearl by hand, considering all virtues before pearls are set into beautiful jewellery. At Pearls of Australia, the pearls graded are only from our Broken Bay and Cygnet Bay pearl farms.
Are there grades of pearls?
Yes, there are different grades of pearls and the terminology used to grade pearls typically also differs between pearl species.
South Sea pearls are often graded on a letter and number scale, with A1 being the highest and B2 being the lowest retail value of pearl. This means the scale looks like this:
A1, A2, A3, B1, B2
Akoya pearls are graded on a letter only scale, with AAA being the highest, AA being the middle and A being the lowest grade.
How can you tell if a pearl is high quality?
You can tell if a pearl is of high quality by first inspecting it and looking at its virtues.
Is it spherical in shape? Does it have a uniform colour? Is it bright and lustrous? Do you know where the pearl is from or where it was cultivated? Has it been chemically treated to enhance its colour or lustre or is it natural in both?
Next is to look at the Certificate of Authenticity, does it have one? If so, what metric has been used to value the pearl? If you're not sure - then it's always best to ask the seller to clarify their pearl grading system.
What is the best grade of pearl?
At Pearls of Australia, the best grade of pearl in relation to Australian South Sea pearls is an A1 grade.
For Australian Akoya pearls it is an AAA grade.
What are the best pearls to buy in Australia?
The best type of pearl to buy in Australia is an Australian pearl that has a Certificate of Authenticity to ensure it is really from Australia and is of natural colour and lustre.
At Pearls of Australia we cultivate the Australian South Sea pearl at our Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm in WA and our Australian Akoya pearls at our Broken Bay Pearl Farm in NSW.
Where can I find expert appraisers for pearl grading near me?
Although we do not appraise or grade pearls that are not grown at our own pearl farms, there are some great resources for the National Council of Jewellery Valuers Australia.
Can I get a pearl grading report before buying pearls online?
Most reputable jewellers will include the grade and information about a pearl.
For example, at Pearls of Australia, we always include the size, shape and grade of the pearl in every description so you know the quality and grade of the pearl set into a jewellery piece.